REIONIZED

Epiphany / Firing Assembly

Firing Assembly

Full Firebolt and firing assembly rebuild, picking up exactly where Teardown leaves off — this page doesn't repeat that disassembly, just what comes after it.

Video: Epiphany Firebolt removal, inspection, and reassemblyComing soon
Inner body assembly, exploded — from the official Smart Parts Epiphany manual (Fig. 18)
Inner body assembly, exploded — from the official Smart Parts Epiphany manual (Fig. 18)

The Epiphany’s Firebolt isn’t just the moving part — it is the valve, the same way the standard Ion’s bolt is. As it slides forward to close the body breech, air transfer ports inside the bolt itself open and release pressurized air through it. There’s no separate valve assembly; the firing assembly (fire chamber, bolt, bolt stop, body breech, and swivel donut) does double duty as both the marker’s action and its valve.

The fire chamber and body breech are the same parts as Ion 1.0/2.0's, mechanically — an Ion 1.0/2.0 fire chamber threads onto an Epiphany breech and vice versa, and the body breech itself is physically identical to the standard Ion's, color aside. The one real difference is the fire chamber: the Epiphany's accepts the silver/blue/ green volume inserts (see Fire Chamber Volume Inserts), while the Ion 1.0/2.0's can't. It's anodized red specifically so the insert-capable version is identifiable at a glance — not just a cosmetic choice.
"Firing assembly" vs. "Inner Body Assembly": the official manual's own diagram (Fig. 18, below) calls this the "Inner Body Assembly." I call it the firing assembly instead, to keep it clearly distinct from the Body Cover — the separate outer shell that goes over this whole mechanism, and a completely different part.
Before you start: fully de-gas the marker before disassembling the firing assembly. Dry-fire it until it stops cycling with the air source disconnected. Never work on a pressurized system.

Getting there

This picks up exactly where Teardown leaves off — same disassembly (grips open, body separated from the grip frame, Vision board out), same parts already sitting loose once you’re there. Nothing here is reachable with the marker still assembled.

What’s actually new on this page, that Teardown doesn’t cover: pulling every o-ring for inspection and replacement (Teardown’s own bolt/bolt-stop step is a visual check and reseat, not a full rebuild), plus the feedneck and the donut clip/swivel donut — two parts Full Teardown never touches at all.

What you’ll need

  • 1/8” hex key (also works for pulling a ball detent to inspect or replace it)
  • Full o-ring kit for the Epiphany (see O-Ring Specs for exact sizes)
  • Molykote 33 Light (formerly Dow Corning 33 / “Shocker Lube” / SL33K) — see Firing Assembly for why grease, not oil, is right for this style of valve
  • 70% isopropyl alcohol (an ultrasonic cleaner works well for a thorough pass), or an aircraft-safe electronics cleaner
  • Two lint-free cloths — one to clean with, one to set parts on
  • Snap-ring pliers, sized to fit (only if removing the swivel donut)
  • A rubber strap wrench (only if removing the feedneck)

Service interval

Same as the standard Ion — ideally after every day of play. Staying on top of it keeps future disassembly easier, since grease that’s had time to gum up is what makes bolts seize on removal.

Removal

  1. Unthread the fire chamber from the body breech — it’s simply screwed on, no fasteners involved.
  2. If a volume insert is installed and you want it out, reach a finger into the fire chamber and pull it straight out — no tools needed. Otherwise leave it in place.
  3. Slide the bolt and bolt stop out together. If they resist, it’s almost always grease buildup, not corrosion — don’t force it.
  4. Separate the bolt from the bolt stop.
  5. The swivel donut, at the rear of the fire chamber, rarely needs removal for routine service — leave it attached unless you’re chasing a specific leak there. If you do need it out: compress and remove the donut clip (CLP004, retaining it) with a properly sized pair of snap-ring pliers, then slide the donut out. Two more o-rings (ORN01570BU) sit underneath it, exposed only once it’s off.
Body breech serial number: Smart Parts stamped a serial number on the body breech itself, front-bottom of the breech, right underneath the barrel — visible on a fully assembled marker, no disassembly required. Removing the barrel improves visibility but isn't necessary to read it. Format varies: most commonly six digits, but a three-digit number preceded by "A," a plain two-digit number, and breeches with no stamped number at all have all turned up too. Worth noting down, especially if you're documenting a restoration.
Body breech stamped with a digits-only serial number
Digits-only format
Body breech stamped with a two-digit serial number
Two-digit format
Body breech stamped with an 'A'-prefixed serial number
"A"-prefixed format
Body breech with no stamped serial number
No stamp

Inspection points

Check every o-ring you can see for flattening, swelling, or embedded debris. Exact sizes for each are on the O-Ring Specs page:

  • The Firebolt rear o-ring, on the tail of the bolt, where it seals against the body breech
  • The Firebolt bumper and middle o-rings, both on the bolt head — three o-rings total on the bolt itself
  • Both bolt stop o-rings — two different sizes on the same part, not one
  • The body breech seal, friction, and rear breech o-rings — three more o-rings in the breech itself
How to tell an o-ring needs regreasing, not just reseating: fresh Molykote 33 Light leaves a visible glossy sheen — an o-ring that looks matte or dull, rather than slightly wet, has run dry. Run a finger over it too: it should feel slick, not dry or tacky. If the old grease looks gray or gritty rather than clean, that's degraded grease mixed with debris — wipe it off completely and apply fresh grease rather than adding more on top of it.
The Firebolt genuinely disassembles into two pieces. I pulled one apart myself, breaking a red-threadlocker bond to unthread the bolt head from the tail — not something to attempt casually, and not part of routine service. Inside, at the front of the tail piece where the head threads on, is a previously-undocumented o-ring, separate from the three o-rings already covered above. It was too degraded on his example to read a durometer directly — his working assumption, based on a spare from his own stock rather than any manufacturer source, is 10/90 UR. Unconfirmed, not a spec.
Firebolt disassembled into its two pieces — bolt head and tail — with the internal o-ring visible at the threaded joint

Ball detents

The body breech is the same part as the standard Ion’s, so it has the same two ball detents — each tip should extend roughly 1/16” into the body breech. If either falls short of that, replace it. Pry a worn detent out with a 1/8” L-shaped hex (Allen) key — the bend gives enough leverage to angle the short end under the detent and pop it straight out. Fingernails, needle-nose pliers, or an o-ring pick work too if that’s what’s on hand. If a detent is really embedded from paint packed in around it, work the long end of the hex key in from the backside of the detent — from inside the body breech — to loosen it first, then pop it out from within the breech. Press the replacement in with a thumb.

Never look down the barrel or into the body breech of an assembled marker, even while wearing goggles.

Reassembly and greasing

Grease all three o-rings on the bolt itself (bumper, middle, rear) plus both o-rings on the bolt stop, liberally enough to fully coat them, but not so much that it globs or squeezes out visibly once seated.

Seat the bolt stop into the body breech with its concave side facing the back of the marker and its flat side facing forward. Push it in evenly until it stops. Insert the bolt into the bolt stop/body breech. If you removed the volume insert, slide it back into the fire chamber before threading the fire chamber back onto the breech. If the bolt stop doesn’t seat flush, it’s almost always installed backwards or not pushed in evenly on one side.

Feedneck

The feedneck threads directly into the top of the body breech — same Ion/Shocker thread as the rest of the family. Removal goes easiest with the body already separated from the grip frame (see Teardown) — you’ll want something solid to grip while you work it loose.

Wrap a rubber strap wrench around the feedneck and turn it counter-clockwise, viewed from above. It can take real force to break free the first time — the rubber wrench provides that grip without marring the feedneck’s finish the way pliers or a pipe wrench would. Reinstall by threading it back in clockwise, hand-tight.

Firebolt, front view — the 8-hole air transfer pattern
Firebolt, front view — the 8-hole air transfer pattern
Firebolt and bolt stop, o-ring inspection points
Firebolt and bolt stop, o-ring inspection points

More than you want to tackle yourself? Check out the finished builds or get in touch to have your Ion serviced.